Eau de Patou (1976) ~ "Known for his inventive spirit, Jean Patou revolutionized fashion in the 1920s by unveiling groundbreaking sportswear innovations. Timelessly modern, Eau de Patou reflects the essence of the Patou style: dynamic sophistication. Part of the Collection Héritage from the House of Patou, the fragrance is a light tonic, subtly flowery and fruity with a freshness that lasts all day. It is a sparkling, crisp and airy fragrance where accords of Bergamot, Sicilian Citrus, Guinea Orange and Sweet Lime are mixed with Pepper Lavender and Orange Flower." Chaldée rescues me from the doldrums and gets me dreaming about the coast: warm weather, the ocean, sunbathing in the tropics. Chaldée is one of my favorite perfumes. And yes, so be it, Sublime !! I have said it before, now say it again, show me someone who cannot wear this. It knows no bounds, no social class. You may think it is for a certain pedigree or style, but it goes everywhere and will dress you up.. I dont know how it does it ??

I am fairly certain there was a woman in my early surroundings wearing this classic - a bright, luminous, creamy ylang with the warmest, motherly, comforting base. A true citrus powdery classic, like a timeless cashmere sweater or angora shawl - almost too simple for the niche-spoiled olfactory appetite of today in constant search of bold and different, dark, complex or provocative. Still, for me Sublime proved to be memorable in its unadulterated beauty and simplicity. Designer Parfums buys Jean Patou from P&G Prestige". CosmeticsBusiness.com. 5 July 2011 . Retrieved 14 September 2012.While the EDT is well-done, I would love to try the parfum version, which I would imagine to be even more stunning. Chaldée was available as a part of the Ma Collection, a set of classical Jean Patou fragrances released between 1925-1964. It can still be found fairly easily at various online discount stores. So for the scent itself, while it lasts, beautiful, a good 8/10. Sillage was reasonable, this leaves a very delicate scent trail. But longevity, is virtually zero, maybe 2-3 hours, tops. Now if this only cost a tenner, I'd go for it, no doubt, and just keep topping up. But for this price no chance! In 1924 the legendary designer, JEAN PATOU was widely perceived as the world’s most innovate and successful fashion designer. When he launched his first fragrances in that same year his rationale was brilliantly simple. Patou adored women....all women and so as a homage to brunettes, blondes and redheads all over the world his first foray into fragrance matched scents to hair color and appealed to everyone. Ever since then, the House of JEAN PATOU has shaped the world of fine perfume with iconic scents such as JOY, SUBLIME and 1000 that have immortalized its reputation as a symbol of quality and prestige.

The sillage is incredibly powerful. One could easily mistake this fragrance for being a big powerhouse from the 70's and 80's. I love the ever changing composition which goes from sweet and charming to bitter and bold in an instant. Given those differences, there are some contemporary reformulations of classics that are successful. While they don't -- they can't -- smell like the originals, they are similar and are very pretty and wearable on their own merits. The drydown is quite possibly my favourite part, with civet, sandalwood, vanilla and vetiver ending the fragrance with a big bang. It's quite animalistic and raw. I find Sublime very sexy in a strange kind of a way. and always try to buy a smaller amount of the higher concentration. i generally find edts that aren't formulated as such (4711 for example) are already at the corner before one is even done dabbing or spraying them on. one has to run like a fiend to catch up with their evaporating molecules - which is counter productive. I will enjoy my sample while it lasts but with such poor longevity it is a no buy despite the beautiful scent.Patou was born in Paris, France in 1880. Patou's family's business was tanning and furs. [1] Patou worked with his uncle in Normandy, then moved to Paris in 1910, intent on becoming a couturier. L'Heure Attendue: For those who love well blended fragrances that are timeless and create mood and ambiance, a contemplative beauty.

For the 2013 version of Chaldee M. Fontaine retained the core trio from the original of orange blossom, narcissus, and vanilla. What is different is the narcissus has a much more pronounced presence. Narcissus is one of my favorite floral notes in all of perfumery and its enhanced prominence adds an intensity to the heart of the 2013 version which doesn’t exist in either of the vintage versions. M. Fontaine also adds a pinch of lilac which makes the new version feel fresher. The base is opopanax and vanilla as in the original but the musky aspect never hits the depths it does in the original. Here is where M. Fontaine makes a truly ingenious decision. Instead of trying to plumb the same depths that the original Chaldee did he lets the 2013 version add some musky aspects and then before going deeper he asks the 2013 version to hold that lesser intensity through to the end. Worn alone, the top must be added because it needs some sparkle and lift to be complete and sublime. This opens quite light then develops a pleasing highly feminine full bodied scent with rich resins and amber, with a very soft warm spice overlaid with a delicate fuzz of cool floral notes (not sure exactly what florals, it just smells like light fluffy florals!) The original Chaldee was a mix of orange blossom, narcissus, and vanilla predominantly over a musky base meant to evoke sun warmed skin. When you sniff the 1927 or the re-released 1984 Ma Collection version it is mostly the deep musky aspects which predominate. My small sample of 1927, or so, Chaldee and my Ma Collection bottle both smell very similar so I am guessing that somewhere after around 20-30 years of aging the oils have hit their steady state. That is something that should always be taken into account when doing these comparisons. Any vintage fragrance has had tens of years to continue to evolve. In essence it has continued to macerate in the bottle which means it has changed somewhat. This was especially brought home to me when Patricia de Nicolai of the Osmotheque shared with me their freshly made versions of vintage perfumes. There is an essential brightness that is lost upon aging for an extended period of time, although an extra level of depth is probably commonly added. Which brings me to the new version of Chaldee.In EDT, Sublime is a (sublimely) cinnamon-spicy, buttery-rich vanillic amber, with lots of oranges in the opening, tangy ylang ylang, rose, and neroli in the heart, and a lot of dark powder, iris and sandalwood in the base. Sublime is a bit linear, actually, some notes come and go, notably the oranges and spices fade a bit, and the rose and white florals dim out after a few hours, but the sandalwood/powder/iris/amber/ylang ylang anchor the whole thing and that's what you'll be smelling for the most part. In fact the ylang-ylang, white flower, good sandalwood accord reminds me a lot of Samsara. I've no idea where they got the sandalwood from but it smells like the real deal, it smells amazing. And it's pretty prominent note, Fragrantica should really fix the note pyramid.