Warshaw, Matthew (2005). The Encyclopedia of Surfing. Orlando: Harvest Book Harcourt Inc. pp.e.g. 452. ISBN 978-0151--00579-6. TNN (20 May 2010). "India's first artificial reef to protect Kovalam". The Times Of India . Retrieved 25 May 2012. Premiering at BFI London Film Festival in 2021 and screening at the Great8 at Cannes, Ride the Wave has enjoyed an award winning International run at over 25 film festivals worldwide and releases in UK cinemas from 9th September 2022. Surfers represent a diverse culture based on riding the waves. Some people practice surfing as a recreational activity, while others make it the central focus of their lives. Surfing culture in the US is most dominant in Hawaii and California, because these two states offer the best surfing conditions. However, waves can be found wherever there is coastline, and a tight-knit yet far-reaching subculture of surfers has emerged throughout America. Some historical markers of the culture included the woodie, the station wagon used to carry surfers' boards, as well as boardshorts, the long swim shorts typically worn while surfing. Surfers also wear wetsuits in colder regions and when the seasons cool the air and water. Remember to think of your emotions like the ocean. Feelings come in waves; some waves may be stronger than others, but they all will pass. Reminders!

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Rip currents can be extremely strong and narrow as they extend out of the surf zone into deeper water, reaching speeds from 0.5m/s (1.6ft/s) and up to 2.5m/s (8.2ft/s), [48] [49] which is faster than any human can swim. The water in the jet is sediment rich, bubble rich, and moves rapidly. [48] The rip head of the rip current has long shore movement. Rip currents are common on beaches with mild slopes that experience sizeable and frequent oceanic swell. [49] On the surfboard [ edit ]Flores, Terry (April 16, 2021). " 'Soul' and 'Wolfwalkers' Take Top Honors at Annie Awards". Variety. Archived from the original on March 14, 2022 . Retrieved March 25, 2022.

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year-old Hinako Mukaimizu moves to an oceanside town to attend college and go surfing, without future thoughts. When a fireworks display sets her apartment building ablaze, she is rescued by Minato Hinageshi, a 21-year-old firefighter with a strong sense of justice. Hinako is drawn to his capable personality, and they bond when he learns how to surf. They spend time together. After telling Hinako the waves are the best to surf in, Minato sacrifices himself to save a jetskiier from drowning. a b Madsen, P.A.; O.R. Sørensen, and H.A. Schäffer (1997). "Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model. Part I. Model description of cross-shore motion of regular waves". Coastal Engineering. 32 (4): 255–287. doi: 10.1016/S0378-3839(97)00028-8.The type of break depends on shoaling rate. Breaking waves can be classified as four basic types: spilling (ξ b<0.4), plunging (0.4<ξ b<2), collapsing (ξ b>2) and surging (ξ b>2), and which type occurs depends on the slope of the bottom. [26] The ride-the-wave technique is a powerful mindfulness-based tool that can help individuals struggling with intense emotions. By learning to accept and ride out these emotions, rather than trying to suppress or avoid them, individuals can become more aware of their emotions and learn to regulate them more effectively. If you are struggling with intense emotions, consider talking to a therapist who is trained in DBT to remember more about the ride-the-wave technique and other mindfulness-based approaches to emotional regulation.