WET SEAL: Our product Wet Seal was the first lubricant introduced to the industry specifically for suspension forks and this article. In 2014 we had the Suspension Experts in Asheville run a serious of tests on every fork to make sure our formula was 100% safe. Before you put the new foam rings into the fork lowers, you will want to soak the foam rings in a small container of fork fluid. The damper side for the Grip 2 damper specifically uses Fox 5wt Teflon Infused bath oil and the air spring side uses Fox 20wt Gold bath oil. Give the foam rings a few minutes to absorb as much of the fork oil as possible. MUC-OFF: Keeping your fork stanchions well lubricated is vital as it reduces the stiction between the wiper seal and the stanchion, which improves small bump sensitivity and trail buzz as the stiction is dramatically reduced. It also helps to keep dirt off the stanchion and seals as the silicon repels dirt and grime to the surfaces cleaner and hence reduces the risk of contaminants getting into the wiper seal (and in turn your fork oil).

MUC-OFF: Start by hosing down thoroughly to remove any dirt but do not force water into the seals. Our Nano Tech Bike Cleaner can be used to remove any stubborn grime and then rinsed and dried with a clean cloth. You can then apply a light coating of Silicon Shine around the stanchion/wiper seal and you are good to go. Before we get started, remove the fork from your bike and make sure it is nice and clean. Also, make sure you have a clean work environment that way no dirt or grime can get into your nice fork. The easiest way to service your fork is to hold the fork by either the steerer tube or the lower leg in a bike stand. Now let's get to it! Internal gear hubs usually use oil, but it's important to use the correct lubricant. Some hubs like the NuVinci hub literally are designed around the special oil they use. For other hub types, the grease doesn't usually matter. Now let's move on to the information you seek. Unfortunately, your question is impossible to answer, as you've provided insufficient data. Lubriplate makes a hundred different products. Some might be appropriate for your application, others are definitely not. They even make a parting agent to separate wooden molds from concrete. This probably wouldn't work well in your fork.

Step 3

WET SEAL: Our Wet Seal also works great on Dropper Posts. If you find that your dropper post is slow to rise or won’t rise at all but has proper air pressure, Wet Seal will have that post popping up like a hen at sunrise. Similar when applying Wet Seal to your fork, clean the dropper stanchion and seal with a micro-fiber rag before applying our product. Once applied, drop and rise the post 3-4 times and clean off the remaining liquid and grime with a micro-fiber rag. Now that the fork is full of the correct bath oil, slide the lowers far enough on to the upper tubes so that the damper rod and air spring rod come out of the lower legs. Place the appropriate Fox crush washers in to place and thread both bottom nuts on by hand. Typically you want to use a lubricant that has a similar composition of what’s found in the bath system. Now that we have the lower legs separated from the upper tubes, it's time to remove the old foam rings. The foam rings sit right underneath the dust wiper and are designed to catch any dirt that gets past the dust wiper. Over time the foam rings can collect a lot of crud and dry out.

WET SEAL: Yes. One can imagine their stanchions are penetrating their lowers. Given it’s a tight fit, lube will reduce the heat on your forks’ seals as the result of friction. Without using lube, seals prematurely wear resulting in dirt/grime finding it’s way into the bath system. The space between the seals and the stanchions is extremely minute to prevent foreign particles from entering your lowers. Seals are the major line of defense for keeping them out. Ensuring that stanchions/seals are properly lubed will extend the life and performance of your fork. Make sure you orient the lowers on to the upper tubes correctly. The damper side is on the rider's right, and the air spring on the riders left side. Gently slide the upper tubes through the dust wipers without pushing the damper rod and air spring rod all the way through the bottom of the lower. That way we can add bath oil! MUC-OFF: We recommend our Silicon Shine. BIKERUMOR: Is there any product/type of lube you should NOT use?

Step 42

MRP: One tip we do recommend is to occasionally flip your bike over to allow the bath oil accumulated at the bottom of your lowers to wet your bushings and seals. If there is a sufficient amount of oil in there, it should splash around as the fork cycles anyway, but to expedite that process and make your fork feel fresh on the first hit, do the above. There are some applications where you should only use the approved grease and using the wrong grease really will cause a problem. This includes roller brake grease. This is critical to use the exact grease specified, and unsafe to substitute anything else.

Free hub seal grease . This is not for freehubs in general but is specifically for Shimano's Microspline seals, and for specific seals there. The datasheet gives the same basic constituents as the previous one, but it might be different. Also, some frame couplers specify special fluoro-compound grease, and it's best to follow the instructions or potentially ruin your frame from thread galling. It is very important to use the correct amount of bath oil in both sides of your fork. See the photo below to make sure you are using the correct oil type and oil volume for your fork. **Fox forks with the Grip Damper use Fox 5wt Silver Teflon Infused Fork Fluid on the damper side.Before removing the bottom nuts, make sure the bottom of your fork is raised higher than the steerer tube so that once the bottom nuts are removed, oil will not spill. MUC-OFF: Yes! You can’t beat regular cleaning of your whole bike to reduce wear and tear and use a good protectant all over your bike! We wash our bikes after every ride, little and often is better than waiting and turning it into a hellishly big job! Internal hub grease. This is with calcium hydroxide 5-10%, white solid lubricants 2-3.5%, & 2.5-4.1% bentonite, other additives and mineral oil. This grease is calcium-based for wash-resistance, and temperatures are not high.