TTArtisan 50mm F0.95 Camera Lens Full Fame Manual Focus Lens Compatible with Leica M Mount Camera Leica M-M M240 M3 M6 M7 M8 M9 M9p M10 (Black version)

Product Information

For portraiture it isn’t so important how flat the field is, it is more interesting to see what the sharpness is like when focused at different parts of the frame to take field curvature out of the equation. positions of crops in the frame The most grueling test of any focusing system is photographing my kids; if I can rangefinder focus on my little moving targets when it’s past their bedtime, I can focus on anything. While I can definitely make it work with the TTArtisan 50mm F/0.95, it doesn’t come easy. The giant barrel of the lens intrudes into the 50mm frame lines of my Leica M (not a consideration with an EVF) presenting a slight challenge to framing, and moving the focus ring is a bit of a chore. Good to hear you can still get work done with your models. funny story — there’s a hotel we’ve stayed at for years. Friends with all the staff, including a flamboyant woman in reception. Turns out she does theater burlesque — competitive, no less, and it has to be G-rated. With COVID shutting down all kinds of theater, I think I’ll suggest she use remote too, and set up the contests online. We will be looking at 100% crops from the 24mp Sony A7III and the Leica M10. Both cameras do not have an anti aliasing filter in front of the sensor. 2.1m distance (24mp Sony A7III vs 24mp Leica M10)

As for corner sharpness, if you’re shooting a portrait at wide open aperture, chances are, you’re trying to isolate the subject anyway, so I don’t think a little softness in the corners will be a problem. Of course, this is just my opinion :). Yes, it might even be somewhat of a distraction to have something ultra sharp. Plus, most lenses at large open aperture have some vignetting, which helps further isolate the subject. I agree, in principle, with the idea that a lens should serve your vision rather than provide it, but I’m not above using the rendering of this lens at f/0.95 to obfuscate all of the unavoidable visual mess around a subject (i.e. a house full of toys and unfolded laundry). It’s also just exciting to alter reality with an image. Even with the optical compromises at the wide end (softness, low contrast, color shift, and a buffet of chromatic aberration) the mind-bending subject isolation possible with this lens is so tempting to (over)use.

Help Me Help You

For me I have a new simple reason : for the safety of the world I do not want to buy things made in China ! It is obvious that there are slower lenses that offer higher resolution, contrast and generally better correction of optical aberrations. The lens features a rangefinder coupling which can be adjusted yourself using a small (supplied) screwdriver. Being an owner of an M-mount camera now I cannot stretch enough what a wonderful design decision this is: the lens can easily be adjusted to be perfectly calibrated to your rangefinder camera and give best possible results without sending it in. I wish every M-mount lens would offer this. The very best protective filter is the Hoya multicoated HD3 67mm UV which uses hardened glass and repels dirt and fingerprints.

There are many nice 50mm lenses out there, with which one could compare this lens to, but they would mostly be full frame lenses for other systems that would have to be adapted, for example Leica 50mm f/1.4 Summilux, Voigtländer Nokton 50/1.5, 50/1.2 or 50/1.1. TTartisan even has their own 50mm f/0.95, and 50mm f/1.4 for M mount, and 7artisans made the 50mm f/1.1 as well as the Kamlan 50mm f/1.1 – So there are PLENTY of options for fast fifty lenses in a lot of different price ranges. The center gets better fast as you stop down and shows good resolution figures at f/1.4 and really good ones with high contrast at f/2.0.How nice! Even though I found harder to get accurate focus by day, the image out of the combo were really exciting. I used ND filters to be able to open up completely. I used ND8 and ND64 depending on the light. One thing I noticed is that the rendering isn’t as clean when there is lots of light. And it often would look a little bit cleaner at F1.1, especially when you try to focus on something a bit far away. So this is something to be remembered when using the TTArtisan 50mm f/0.95 with strong contrasts, close it down a bit to clean out fine contrasty details. Leica M6, Ilford HP5 @400iso, TTArtisan 50mm f/0.95 @f/0.95 Leica M6, Ilford HP5 @400iso, TTArtisan 50mm f/0.95 @f/0.95 I use a clear (UV) protective filter instead of a cap so I'm always ready to shoot instantly. I only use a cap when I throw this in a bag with other gear without padding — which is never. The UV filter never gets in the way, and never gets lost, either.

Center and corners look very similar to what we have seen on the E-mount camera, the midframe looks about 2 stops better though (meaning f/2.0 on M10 looks comparable to f/4.0 on Sony A7rII). I have a 50mm 0.95 Noctilux on extended loan but no M to X adapter for the X1D or 907x/CFVII to test it I also admit I had really more difficulties to focus with the TTArtisan 50mm f/0.95 relying only on the rangefinder. That said, I didn’t try to calibrate it because I figured out it was easier to rely on the EVF anyway. Digital magic.

Comments

I'm not a lens 'character' believer either as those so-called characters are mostly introduced by optical flaws which makes images nasty. Summilux 50/1.4 Asph. is a very balanced lens IMO. Sometimes I feel APO-Summicron-M being too analytical. The upcoming M-mount Voigtlander Apo-Lanthar 50/2 might be a fantastic choice as well. lens correction filter for shots made at 10 meters (30 feet), and even with this the distortion is sufficiently complex that there is some residual waviness left after this correction. At half body portrait distance (roughly 1.2 to 1.5 m focus distance) the lens generally worked best for me, as it seems to be optimized for these distances. So sharpness and contrast are good enough, bokeh is smooth and undistracting. Leica M10 | TTArtisan 50mm 0.95 | f/0.95 Leica M10 | TTArtisan 50mm 0.95 | f/0.95 Sony A7rII | TTArtisan 50mm 0.95 | f/0.95 It's sharp enough at large apertures in the center, but softer in the corners, all of which which improve as stopped down. It's not for astronomy or scientific use; it's an effects lens for lovers of great bokeh. Things can get very far out of focus at f/0.95, which is why people buy this lens..

It seems this has only been manufacturerd for a short time and I don’t know much about it. There is a test at opticallimits that might give you an idea. Made-in- U. S. A. Davis 6250 weather station, 07 January 2021. Nikon Z6 II, Mitakon 50mm f/0.95 with Tiffen 0.9 (8x or 3-stop) neutral-density filter on passive adapter at 1/ 4,000, 1/ 2,500, 1/ 1,250, 1/ 640, 1/ 320, 1/ 160 and 1/ 80 at ISO 100, Perfectly Clear. By now I have tried/reviewed no less than 5 different 50mm 0.95 lenses. What has been clear so far: it is not easy to design a lens with these parameters, especially if the dimensions are ought to stay within reasonable limits. The light-vacuuming ability of the TTArtisan effectively compensates for the rather sad maximum usable ISO of 640 on the Leica M8. If you would like the option of shooting at lower ISO (film or digital), this lens will get you there. I made images with this lens in near darkness that just would not be possible or usable with any other lens, and in these conditions the worst of its characteristics, such as CA, are less of a concern.Artist lenses tend to be softer but have perhaps heavy vignetting or interesting fall off. I love the mentioned TTArtisan 50mm f0.95 lens for this look especially. If this 1,200×900 pixel crop is about 12" (30cm) wide on your screen, then the complete image printed at this same insanely high magnification would be about 40 × 60" (1 × 1.5 meters).